Thailand 1st August  to 20th August

Well here I am, another blog for another country. I’ve already started taking photos and posted them, the blog took abit of a back seat as I was getting acquainted with a new place ,culture and customs. In other words doing my washing, eating, drinking tea, eating, shopping eating, organising my Vietnam visa, plus excursions....oh and did I mention eating??? I’m settled now, so will put pen to paper....or keyboard to computer ;-) 

So far it’s nothing as I remember it. I was here in 1997 (how many years ago????) I thought I’d head for Khosan road, my old haunt then. I dont recognise any of it. The road is full of markets, that much I remember, selling everything from fake watches, sunglasses, to t’shirts, hippy clothes, fake ID....(I can get a Hawaiian driving licencse for 150 Baht) There is an addition of Indian tailors now, with Indian blokes on the street asking you where your from, want to buy a cheap suit? Who come up with the location to send thousands of Indians to set up a tailors on a hippy street? are they trying to tell everyone to smarten up? Do I really look like I want to buy a suit??? I’m sweating from every orafice, half starved due to bloody Chinese cuisine, and every two hundred meters get asked if I want to buy a suit....”very cheap”....They avoid me like the plague now. I have made a few purchases, I got some t’shirts...(some of my tshirts I had to throw away, not sure if it was the flem filled streets of China or the fact they got wet and i didn’t wash them in time...but you can guess what they looked like, so I threw them out) now to restock...at a 150 Baht for a t’shirt I splurged....(just under 3 quid) BARGIN....;-) also got a pair of sunglasses, a hat, and enough chocolate to sink a battleship. happy days.

My first night In Thailand, after my “Asian... Ryan air experience” was a hotel close to the airport. Next morning I came into Khosan road by taxi, after abit of haggling with the driver (you have to it’s the law it seems) he brought me here. My hotel was right on the Rambratti road, full of western tourists, full of restuarants, and I was in heaven. There is alot of Spanish and Dutch here, quite a few Brits as well I suppose, and a few Israelis. It’s a nice feeling to be a tourist, and not one of the Cardishians like in China, although I was soon to discover theres alot of Chinese here as well....( I thought they were Thai)..

So far I’ve managed to restock my toiletries. I was always abit apprehensive in China about buying things like toothpaste (their track record for safe ingredients is not 100% to say the least and fear of having lead added for that fresh minty taste was a source of concern) I got a haircut, both of them :-) (worried I’m starting to look like Charlie Brown)..all my laundry done.and smelling great. Ive changed up my money giving myself a budget of a 1000 Baht a day for food, drink, taxis and trips. (about 18 quid a day) I’ve finally managed to sort out my Vietnam visa, it took three days and 2500 Baht, a far cry from the 90 quid I almost paid in the UK. So to celebrate I treated myself to a trip to the floating markets. Now anyone who knows me, a trip to a market is a no no, but this was a good photo opportunity, and famous in Thailand......to be continued ....

I booked the excursion with a local agency, they will pick me up and take me to the floating markets, there’s hundreds of agencies to choose from, almost as many as Indian tailors. I liked these guys though and glad I used them. At 7am next morning I got the minibus, there was about 8 of us altogether, Spanish mainly. We set off at breakneck speed ( the minibus was run on LPG, I kid you not, most of the taxis i’ve travelled in here as well are LPG......it’s like living in a mad max film the noise of them.....and only one speed....Foot to the floor) every mode of transport ive been in since arriving Ive ended up in a gas station...literally; what the gas consumption is is anyones guess. Watching the world flash past me praying I didnt blow up like the “Hindenburg” we safely made it to the floating markets....along with about 100 other similar minibuses... How big is this bloody market? As we got off the bus we were all given a little sticker on our arm, this indicated what group you belonged to and what trips you booked. very organised. On we went to the jetty where jet boat after jet boat pulled up,  8 people got on, then they flew off in a plume of spray through these narrow waterways, I didn’t take many pictures....infact I didn’t take any....holding on for dear life whilst screaming, down a three foot wide channel was priority one for me. luckily I we arrived in one piece at another jetty where we were told that for 200Baht we could go round the rest of the market on a similar jet boat, or for 150baht go on a canoe which is paddled. Guess which I chose....I got some good shots, it was great seeing all the people going about their day, it did get congested though, a rush hour traffic snarlup with boats....even the jet boats had to stop. I really enjoyed it and spent a good couple of hours. We had to meet the minibus at 3pm so I headed back to the jetty, there was a million market stalls, and a stall with a bloody great snake on the table....( now I hate snakes, seeing them puts the fear of God up me, and this was a python hugh bloody great thing) I took the widest berth possible to go around this thing whilst others were having it put over their shoulders for a photo ....the stupid gets...Back on another minibus, yes still LPG, still one speed, we set off for the Tiger sanctuary where you can pet these tigers. ( Now I have certain rules in life and so far it’s kept me alive, “if it can kill you stay away from it” sadly this will be updated to LPG speed freak mini bus suicide machines..... ) It started to rain, I’m not talking a shower , this was a full blown buckets of water monsoon rain. The poor sods in Maymar have had really bad floods from these rains, I’ve not seen too much damage here but you get wet when it does fall. It’s rained everyday for no more than a couple of hours maximum so we should think ourselves lucky.....and just hope it doesn’t piss off the Tigers. I brought my poncho, waited for the rain to slow down and walked off into the park, there was dear, pigs ...you name it all wild and roaming around free...( take away menu for the Tigers no doubt)...maybe if I stay close to these I wont get eaten???? Eventually I arrived infront of a teenage tiger....not very big but big enough to give you more than a love bite. He was chained up and his...or her...(politicaly correct)...keeper was standing by and gave us instructions ....I had to take off my poncho, not to crouch low or make sudden movements or noises..( does farting count, i’m face to face with a Tiger, I may be prone to abit of wind????)..The tiger was pretty lethargic, and didn’t pounce. I did get some amazing pictures, I posted one on 500px a photography website and got over 300 hits the best I’ve ever done. 

The next area was a whole group of Tigers all chained up. Some big cats as well. they all had their trainers ( I dont mean Adidas or Nike) with them and people could go and pet them, it wasn’t really my thing ( I like my fingers and hands) I was content to take photos, they did look sad and and depressed poor things, but gorgeous beasts. To one side was a monk sitting at a table I noticed, I don’t know wether he was a medic disguised as a monk as to not alarm anyone, or  read the last rights to anyone who upsets the Tigers, but it was unusual to see. That was the day over really, We got back it the minivan and took off back to Bangkok.... dropped us off at the top of Koshan road, where i got some dinner. Not rice, no noodles, but a whole chicken. the end of a perfect day.        

Today I went to Kanchanaburi, or basically ‘the bridge over the river Kwai’. During the second world war, the occupying Japanese forces built a railway linking up the supply lines to Burma, originally the ambitious plan was to take a few years, but using prisoners of war and local Thais they finished the job in months at a cost of well over 100000 lives, through ill treatment disease, and starvation. Although the original wooden bridge has long since gone there is a metal one standing now with museums, a grave yard and monuments to the poor sods who died here. A very somber place. I wasn’t intending to sleep there; I stayed there in 97’ the memories of the “disco boat” still haunting me. In them days I remember a sleepy jungle village, I stayed in a bamboo hut right on the river, sleeping under a mozzi net with the fan going over my head, I thought it was how the prisoners back in the war must have lived. I could hear the noises of the wild life in the jungle...so cool. Then I heard it DUM...DUM..DI...DHA.....DHAM...getting louder and louder. Coming up river was the “disco Boat” all bloody night it went on, I left next day. Present day Kanchanaburi is very different, I’m not sure if the disco boat is still going strong....or it was torpedoed, but the place has boomed, shops, houses and restuarants are all over, it’s lost alot of the somber feel and hard to get lost in how it must have been for them back in the war, but time has to change. 

I was on another LPG fueled “Hindenburg” mobile....racing through the traffic back to Khosan road. I was determined .....if I survived this .....to get a steak dinner, or something nice at least, it was a few hours until we reached Bangkok and ever closer the dream I am going to survive. Abit dramatic I know but you try getting on one...I dare ya!!!!! ....I reached Koshan road, in one piece...happy days, then through the throng of hippies, I looked at each restuarant at the menus to find something nice...steak was off the menu as I didn’t see alot of dogs running about (it’s a hidden rule that if I dont see dogs or cats wild then I dont eat the meat)...you never know...I found an Israeli restuarant, they served Falafel and Hummus.....I LOVE FALAFEL AND HUMMUS...it was like being back on the Kibbutz...so many Israelis in there...I enjoyed it. Coming out onto the street it’s alive, westeners from all walks of life ....shopping...eating..drinking...massages, yes a new addition as well Iv’e noticed is the ‘massage parlours’, well not exactly parlours but a row of beds on the street with people being fondled by blokes and women..(some abit of both;-)) who seemingly have some sort of qualification, it’s not my cup of tea, but each to their own. There are a fair few of them, it’s probebly a good thing, Thailand has tried to clean up it’s image so better this than sleezy brothels or ping pong ball shows.....I haven’t been to any honest Mom. x 

So far Ive spent the time in Thailand in and around Bangkok, Ive done the major sights, Iv’e been to the palace, countless waks, the floating markets, shopping street, seen monks, played spot the ladyboy, I really should stop doing that, the poor women was devestated ;-) ....I’ve decided to get a train upto Changmai, it’s an over night train, what else would it be. But to be honest, I’d rather that than 12 hours in a “hindenburg mobile” doing a million miles an hour. It cost 1000 Baht (18 quid) not bad, and i enjoyed it when I was there in the 90’s. The rains are still pretty bad up there so decided to see about the trek once i’m there,if not there are plenty of hill tribes I can visit, and the place is alot more chilled than Bangkok. The scenery is amazing as it’s on the Burmese boarder...jungles and mountains..Ive also got my Vietnam visa sorted, so booked a flight to Ho Chi Ming (Saigon) on the 20th August......I’m going to ‘Nam”....finally...so excited. I write this now outside the hotel, on Khosan road waiting for 5:30pm, my bags in storage, the hotels are good here like that, I’ll get some dinner before I head off to the station. I’ll write more on the train, I did abit of research. there’s a website called “seat61” brilliant for information and buying tickets on any train in the world. I looked up the best trains, times and prices for the Changmai train and will definatly be using it again.....it says there was a toilet, airconditioned, a buffet car and clean so win win...i’ll keep you posted. 

I didn't get a chance to update this on the train there was too much going on. The train was alot nicer than all the ones I've been on, better than the Russian trains, alot better than the Chinese trains, i'm happy. I got to the station in plenty of time, I found the train and my carriage, I met a Dutch family travelling around Thailand, so lovely and what a great memory for them. the mom was frantic as they had been given three different compartments even though there was the 4 of them and the two boys were young, she asked if I would swap which I did, and also managed to find another person to swap with so they could all be together. The bunks were already made up and I would be sharing with one other Malaysian guy ( a far cry from the Chinese 500 to a compartment) there were 4 bunks in total, airconditioned, clean and everything working. I stowed my bags, paddlocked them all together and went to the buffet car. The only gripe about the train was that there was no hotwater urn like the other trains, not to worry I'll just grab a cuppa in the restaurant car. Off I trundle passing by the toilet, I thought I'd give it a little check, especially after my past experiances....it passed the inspection. Clean, lockable, toilet shaped, it still wouldn't have passed moms inspection, but I was happy enough. The buffet car wasn't that far, I passed the peasent class, (sorry peasents) and reached the dinning car, it was great, all the windows were open so you could watch the world go by ( just keep your mouth closed as the bugs fly in ) I loved it. I got a cuppa and sat there. There was some Thai "commandos" sitting next to me, persumebly the security for the train, they seemed pleasent enough. Time was ticking on, I thought I'd turn in, hopefully I would sleep and be fresh for tomorrow. It wasn't a bad sleep, I did wake up freezing....aircon going full blast didn't help....i put the blanket over me and drifted off again. Around 7:30am I got up, had a quick wash, and went to grab a cuppa. the dinning car was virtually empty, save the two 'Commandos" sitting in exactly the same seats as last night. ( they had "commandos" written on their uniform, plus had a gun each so I took it as read they were commandos....saying that I can buy a Hawian driving licence on the Khosan road for 150 Baht, and a t shirt with "I am God" ....so maybe not....) I sat there and watched the jungle pass me out the window, the hot air blasting my face, the train occasionaly passing a small village, It was a great start to the day. We stopped a couple of times, people would run up outside selling food and drink, by this time backpackers and westeners started to drift into the buffet car, I met an American couple, who took some great photos of me out the window, they were travelling through Thailand, you don't meet many Americans over here, it's mainly Dutch Spanish French and Brits. I sat there the whole time until they announced that we will be arriving in Chiang Mai in 10 minutes, I stripped the bed, got my stuff together and was ready by the time we pulled in. 

I already booked a hotel on booking.com before I arrived so knew where I was going, I haggled a price for a tuc tuc and we set off weaving in and out of the traffic, it was still only 9am and I thought i'd have the usual wait till 2pm before I got my room but they checked me in there and then, I love this place already...;-) It was alot cheaper to stay here than Bangkok ....half the price. I had a shower and went out for an explore. I was here in 97 and cant really see many changes, the place is easy to get around, Wats (buddhist temples ) everywhere, a real backpacker kind of place. I got some brunch, there is an abundance of western menu places here so rice, noodles and Tofu are off the menu for the time being ;-). There's even an English pub that does roast dinners.......ROAST DINNERS.... I love this place....After a quick detour as I was walking in the wrong direction....as I say half the fun is getting lost...I found the tour office recommended by some people I met. I wanted to do every tour and trek, but limited my options....I'll do them all tomorrow instead ;-) I booked the national park tour for next day, I'll see the highest point in Thailand, some hill tribes, a trek in a rain forest....see two waterfalls and lunch included...(.bloody rice and noodles...ho hum)....they will pick me up at the hotel at 8am. Feeling knackered after a long day I went back to the hotel.

The next morning I got myself ready, had breakfast, (bought some cornflakes in the seven eleven) and was picked up. There was going to be 12 of us doing the excursion, from India Italy, France and me.....I got chatting to two Italian Ladies, from Milan, nice sharing your experiences and finding out information about other trips and places. We got to the first waterfall, but it was so crowded you couldn't see it properly, the second waterfall was better, the rainforest was ...well wet...but nice, and alot cooler as we were 2500 meters up, the village where the hill tribe lived was abit manmade, I could imagine them being told on the phone we were coming and all run to put on the "traditional garb" ...but in all a good day out. As soon as we got back I headed out to the nightmarket, got some dinner and took a stroll around, people seem alot more layed back up here, they dont keep trying to make a sale, and alot more polite. In Bangkok they would hassle you, I suppose it's the big cities, and these people are trying to make a living. ....to be continued. 

I've been in Chiang Mai for almost a week now and feeling refreshed, it's a nice atmosphere, not bustling or busy. I have done another couple of treks, even rode an elephant, ( that's not a euphemism) I've visited hill tribes, long necks, big ears....(I'm not being politically incorrect, they call them that). The weathers been wet, but not all the time, just when I step outside mainly, it doesn't just rain, it falls down!! getting you as wet as possible then it stops. Bless.......I've learnt now to carry various plastic bags, a change of clothes, and a brolly. I'm eating well, Mash tatty, jacket spud, chicken breast, veg, so the weights coming back on. Ive actually just had a curry ...chicken tikka masala....mmmmm. So lets just say i'm feeling content. Going back to the last trek, we set off again early, arrived at a butterfly farm...don't ask...then onto the elephant park. Now you know me by now, I like to keep my hands free of wildlife and feet on good ol terra firma, but this elephant ride was something I wanted to do, there was no saddle or basket you literally rode on it's back, no fear of it galloping off into the sunset with me clinging on for dear life....well it's an elephant, how fast can it gallop? I didn't take a selfie alas, I was trying to hold on for dear life, no reigns or handle bars on this thing but it was amazing, I loved it. the elephant seemed happy enough, occasionally eating, strolling along, so cool. From there we went to a village, it's a tribal village famed for the decorative neck rings they wear. There's kids not much older than Niamh (six years old) with a heavy ol neck thing, it weighs a couple of pounds easily poor things. They were happy enough to pose, and I got some amazing photos, but I cant help feeling for them. They are tribal with no real nationality, neither Chinese, Burmese, Laos Thai or Cambodian, the Thai goverment lets them stay here and lets them work but they are not allowed to grow Opium, (well thats fair). This is where the "golden triangle" came about because they sold Opium for gold, and the triangle is where Laos meets Thailand meets Burma (Mayanmar). So these people scratch a meagre income posing for tourists and selling crafts. Beats getting stoned every night and see who can wear the most rings....

There was 8 of us in the group, a French family, a British couple and me. next we headed for a waterfall, we trekked through a jungle, over rivers and through small villages, there was alot of treks going on so you felt cattle hearded, for the want of a better word. The waterfall was nice enough, you could swim in it if you wanted, then it started to rain....big ol fat heavy rain...monsoon rain, and my poncho was in the truck..doh. Suffice to say I got wet, we all did, but it was still hot and humid, so refreshing in a way, once I got back I did bring a spare tshirt so dried off in no time once the rain stopped. It did get hairy crossing log bridges over the now fast moving river, especially being wet, but an hour later we made it. The highlight, well in a warped way was the last stop....aptly named "poopoo Park".  As a conservation project, the locals make paper out of elephant crap, I kid you not. I have a birthday card ready to send out made out of Elephant poop :-) It doesn't smell, or look like well crap....they took us round the prosseses they hire a small group of locals so it's bringing something into the community, and clearing up the roads because believe me elephant crap is BIG....and there is alot.....try running over one of these bad boys on your bike and your straight over the handle bars!!! I got a few good colourful photos........

Today I was up late, thought I'd have a lay in, I did all my washing in the sink last night....mom would be so proud....:-) so the room was looking like a Chinese laundry. I decided to stay here another few days, I like the slow pace the jungle and have only 5 more days left in Thailand....( then I'm off to Nam remember) I was thinking to do the south, Krabbi, Kho Samui....but it's probebly full of hippies so decided to spend some more time up here. I did book my train ticket though for the 18th August back to Bangkok. Good ol "seat61" ....2nd class sleeper, train number 2 at 18.00 arrives into Bangkok at 06:50. owz that. I'm going to see some more hill tribes tomorrow as well, in a different area...bigears, Lashu,...cant wait. I'm sitting here now in a small cafe outside the old city of Chiang Mai, I've had two banana juices, surrounded by westeners, suns out, and feeling great...here's to my friends and family :-) 

 Another day passed, sitting here supping a banana juice.....yes it's raining again, but gives me a chance to catch up on this. My trip to the tribal villages yesterday was amazing, I got some excellent photos, we went to four different villages, one was very touristy, they were waiting for us all costumed up, mobile phones put away, the little kids not happy at having to wear the traditional dress, bless em. The rest we were taken to were actual villages of the hill tribes, they were so welcoming, and happy to show you part of their lives. It of course rained, but not for long, I got more wet from sitting on my water bottle on the mini bus....so embarrassing. I was travelling with two Puerto Rican brothers, two Italians and two Spanish, the common language now being Spanish, it was a good group and it was nice chatting away, as best I could anyway. We also went to a cave, the Queen of Thailand actually went to the same cave a couple of days before. Its a Buddhist shrine, we walked into the depths of this damp murky cave, how long we were in there I don't know ,I was too busy dodging bat poop. It was quite long, damp slippery and branched off into the unknown, Julie the guide said a group got lost one time....(.poor sods are still down there wandering about probebly....:-/) We had lunch.....bloody rice, but wasn't too bad. Then by universal vote everyone wanted to skip the 'Butterfly farm" and go to another village instead. phew.....I mean....buttefly farm...I was soooo glad. The village was all made from wooden or bamboo houses, all on stilts, surrounded by jungle, even had monkeys in the trees, they looked like they didn't have a lot but they were still happy and smiling ( the tribal people not the monkeys, they were to busy trying to poop on you) It was a good experiance. I was knackered though by the time we got back. I went to the ticket office to pick up my train ticket for Bangkok, then went to my favorite restaurant and had mash chicken and veg, the people in there are so lovely, always smiling, so glad to keep going back.   

Another few days have passed, I'm back in Bangkok as of this morning, yes another overnight train.....bloody freezing it was....aircon was on full blast!!!, even a penguin would have wept. I had a restless night but it was a good journey. The train was nice, still alot nicer compared to the Russian and Chinese trains. but to add to my excitement I've bought myself a new toy...:-) a gopro camera, so you lucky people might be getting some video, that will be nice wont it.;-) I'm learning how to use it, not as technical as my other cameras, so wont be long...but tried a few out of the window shots on the train...I just have to remember to tuck my head in everynow and then. I left Chiang Mai behined, I had such a great time there, some great memories, and now feeling relaxed and refreshed I'm ready for the next trip to Vietnam. It's so sad that there was bombings in Bangkok yesterday, you can feel the tension here, it does put you on edge, those poor people enjoying their travels, it could be the people I see now, the people infront of me walking along just snuffed out in an instant. There is a noticable police and military presence, especially on the Khosan road where I am now, a major tourist hangout. lets just hope they catch them and get Thai justice.....I dont mean ping pong balls fired at them either....

I'm packing at the moment, I'll be flying tomorrow, so have to make sure all my bits are in order, ( and no one has stuffed any drugs in my bag while I wasn't looking.....we've all seen "Bangkok Hilton" :-0 !!) I got my ticket on 'ebookers' at a fraction of the price I was quoted in the UK, so happy. It's a 3pm flight so a good time to go ....not too early to get to the airport and not too late to find the hotel in Ho Chi Min (Saigon), seems mad that 40 odd years ago everyone was trying to flee the place, funny how time changes things. I've booked a taxi as well just to make sure, I cant be bothered to haggle on a street corner tomorrow, I just want to get there. I've had a read up as well, lonely planets is a good stepping stone to any country and used it ever since I first travelled. Then 'Wanderlust' they have an online forum which is really good, telling you of any recent problems or good experiences, ( dont want to go wandering into any minefields now do I?.....literally ) The foreign office always have a good upto date website as well. It's probebly taken the uncertainty out of travelling like the old days, where I carried my big ol lonely planets books and swapped them, hotels were found by trudging up the road with a heavy backpack trying to negotiate a good price or moving on when you see it was a flee pit....getting post sent out from home. Nowdays your in constant touch with friends and family, you know where to go, what your getting for your money and there's no more surprises.....generally. Progress for you ;-) I have read that there is no social media allowed in Vietnam like Facebook, Instagram etc. I'm not sure how much censorship there is, it could be like China so I'll just have to see when I get there. So don't worry if you don't hear from me for a while i'll be off the grid, but will continue to keep writting and taking photos....and now video..;-). I have added a 'contact' tab to the website, so if any of you have any questions please feel free to pop me an email.

This the last entry for the Thailand blog, you can find the new updates now on the Vietnam tab, cos.........I'm going to "Nam" ;-).